A Beginner's Guide to Making Plastic Models
Imagine this scenario if you will. A friend of yours has invited you over to their house. On entering you see shelves upon shelves and rows upon rows of small plastic vehicles, and hanging from the ceiling is an armada of tiny plastic aircraft. You duck and weave down the hall, and tentatively call out a 'Hello?' From a room somewhere nearby comes a muffled, 'In here'. You walk on,[url=http://www.northface-jackets.us@#$%&/]north face jackets[/url], the heady smell of fresh paint reaching your nose. You then see your friend hunched over a tabletop, their shadow cast grotesquely against the wall from a bright light. A paintbrush in mouth, they appear to be stuck to a small piece of plastic. 'Be with you in a moment, just putting the cockpit of my Spitfire on.' Your head reels, maybe from the paint fumes, but possibly more so because you think that perhaps your friend has finally gone stark raving mad.
Not so! They're simply applying themselves to the fine art of model making. What are models? Some may be lured into thinking that they are something that fashion designers hang their clothes on, but proper models are miniature replicas of (most commonly) vehicles such as cars, aeroplanes, military machines or even science fiction subjects. Miniature reproductions of historical scenes from history or fiction (dioramas) are also available, together with models of soldiers and other famous people (figurines), dinosaurs and monsters, or just about anything from films and TV. Wargamers also tend to enjoy the making of models relating to their chosen game, but these are more often than not metal figurines, which is an entirely different kind of subject.
So,[url=http://www.saclongchamp-pas-cher.fr/]longchamp[/url], as is evident, model making is a very broad hobby, and can become addictive, even an obsession. Interested? This Entry will provide a rough overview and also a guide to getting started in the field of model making, focussing on the building of model vehicles (aircraft,[url=http://www.longchamphandbags.us@#$%&/]longchamp bags[/url], tanks, cars, etc), as this is the 'meat and potatoes' of the hobby itself.
Getting StartedIf you've never built a model before,[url=http://www.louboutinoutlet.it/]louboutin[/url], choose an easy subject to begin with. One very obvious tip so obvious that it tends to be overlooked is to pick a model topic which appeals to you personally. This means you are less likely to run out of interest and motivation halfway through, and leave the thing half finished!
Don't go over your head either. It's no good picking up a scale replica of the HMS Victory to build when you've never made a model, and don't know a thing about boats. Or sailing. Or,[url=http://www.michaelkorsoutlet-canada.ca/]michael kors canada[/url], more importantly, 'rigging'. Nor is it much fun to try and reproduce Han Solo's Millennium Falcon if you don't know your Wookie from your R2 unit.
Pick yourself out an affordable, good quality kit that takes your fancy one with few parts and an easy 'skill level'. 1:72nd or 1:48th scale aircraft kits are recommended for beginners to modelling. 'Ah, "skill levels" and "1:72nd scale", what are you on about?' you may very well ask. Read on and all will be revealed.
Skilled Professional?There are many manufacturers of plastic kit models, and some people will have heard of the more famous brands such as Airfix, Revell, Tamiya,[url=http://www.montrepas-cher.fr/]montre @#$%&[/url], Verlinden and Historex. Model manufacturers tend to grade their models according to complexity, and older modellers will remember that Airfix used a 'flying hours' system the fewer 'flying hours' the easier the build. Airfix kits are still available, but the company did not produce very many new kits after it went into receivership in 19811.
Revell and Airfix now prominently display on the side of the model kit box a 'skill level' ranging from 1 through to 62; the lower the number, the less skill and experience necessary for building. For total beginners or very young children Skill 1 models are recommended, as they are generally of the 'snap together' variety and require no painting or glue. For older people (eight years and up) Skill 2 is recommended, which requires some glueing and painting. Then the skill levels go through to 5 or 6, described by one h2g2 Researcher as: Insane, and contain[ing] sub microscopic pieces. For experts then, really.
As mentioned though,[url=http://www.ugg-australia.it/]ugg australia[/url], it's best to go for something you think you can manage. Don't go overboard either and think of building a kit then 'pimping' it up or trying to 'modify' it mid construction,[url=http://www.raybansunglassesoutleta@#$%&/]rayban sunglasses[/url], unless you've practised and practised and know exactly what you're doing. For your first few kits, follow the instructions to the letter and you should be happy with the results, and shouldn't become discouraged. Plus you'll be proud to show off your finished model to friends and family without fear of embarrassment.
Size DOES MatterModels come in different scales. 1:72nd scale means the ratio of the model corresponds to it being seventy two times smaller than the original vehicle. Many aircraft and military vehicles come in this scale, or the larger, more detailed 1:35th (mostly tanks and armour) or 1:48th (aircraft) scales. When completed, these sized kits are generally small enough to fit on a common bookshelf, although, of course, larger vehicles in real life mean larger models. A P 51 Mustang is naturally going to be dwarfed by a B 17 Flying Fortress,[url=http://www.@#$%&-rosherun.fr/]roshe run @#$%&[/url], whether side by side in reality, or side by side on your hall table as models.
There are many different sizes of model to find though,[url=http://www.oakleyvaultsunglasses.us@#$%&/]oakleys[/url], and it is best to start reasonably small, such as 1:72nd aircraft, 1:35th tanks and armour or 1:48th aircraft,[url=http://www.insanityworkouts-calendar@#$%&/]insanity calendar[/url], strange as that may sound. Bigger models often have massive amounts of detail; for the beginner (particularly younger children) this can became frustrating and boring, especially when you've to paint all the numbers on the altimeter in three different colours before you can even start putting the cockpit together on your new model airplane.
Scale can be a matter of personal preference though. There are hardcore modellers out there who have gone so far as to work in 1:1 scale. Yes, making a life size model! In the Monty Python's Flying Circus spin off, 'Ripping Yarns' Tomkinson's Schooldays, the hero, Tomkinson (played by Michael Palin), recounts his life at one of England's most sadistic and terrifying public schools. Tomkinson briefly finds escape at the School Modelling Club, but his teacher (played by Terry Jones) quibbles at his choice of modelling topic and the scale he has chosen to work in. In true Monty Python style,[url=http://www.mulberryhandbags-outlet.co.uk/]mulberry handbags[/url], a shouted debate ensues on the limits of modelling as a hobby, culminating in Terry Jones fulminating:
'If it's one in one scale, Tomkinson, then it's not a model,[url=http://www.moncler-outlet.it/]moncler outlet[/url], it's an ICEBREAKER! Now get it melted down for scrap this minute!'A Small (or rather LARGE) Digression1:1 scale modellers do, however, tend to be energetic, outdoor types with money to burn, time on their hands, and an engineering background. They might start with a Russian Red Army surplus T 60 tank,[url=http://www.timberland-pas-cher.fr/]timberland @#$%&[/url], for instance, and remodel the exterior so that it is indistinguishable from a Second World War German 'Tiger' tank. This is then rented out to film studios and TV producers who have learnt that only three 'Tiger' Tanks are preserved anywhere in the world, and only one is actually capable of moving under its own steam. The lack of authentic preserved German tanks is a headache for TV and film producers, who are creating for an informed audience, and who know that if they use anything other than what appears to be the real thing, their film will be slated for lack of accuracy. The days when a filmmaker could do The Battle of the Bulge with American Army General 'Pershing' tanks pretending to be 'King Tigers', or A Bridge Too Far with Dutch Army 'Leopard' tanks pretending to be German 'Panther' tanks, are long gone. Film goers are too knowledgeable to be conned like that any more, and any film or TV series needing authentic looking German armour has to get it from somewhere. That's when the 1:1 scale modellers step into the breach3.
Anyway, back to the topic in question.
Just Looking?The next step, once you've decided on the type of model you'd like to make, is to go to a model shop and peruse the range of models available, and to then get your supplies. There used to be many specialist model shops,[url=http://www.hermes-sac.fr/]hermes @#$%&[/url], but with a drop off in sales many stores diversified into selling general toys and computer games. As a result model shops can be harder to find, but every medium sized town will have one at least. Check out the small advertisements in the back of Military Modelling or Military Modelcraft International (the big selling hobby magazines and 'trade press' for professionals).
'Craft' stores may also carry a good selection of models it's always worth looking but the small, dedicated model shop is where you are most likely to find staff who are modellers, know the hobby,[url=http://www.beats-bydrdre-headphones@#$%&/]beats by dr dre[/url], and can put you and your interest in touch with each other; also, many of these stores will often be pleased to order models in, even from small and obscure suppliers.
Once you have selected your kit, it's vital that you collect all the necessary equipment before you head home and eagerly tear everything open. There is nothing more frustrating than opening the box with anticipation, only to discover you've run out of flesh colour paint and have to get the bus back into town before you can start work on giving life to the pilot/driver's face.
Tools of the TradeBefore you even begin making a model, ensure you have the following:
A model kit (yes, you will need to purchase one, or have one bought for you as a gift.).
A clear flat surface to work on, in a well lit and ventilated area (it's worthwhile getting a small table lamp to aid in lighting needs).
A scalpel or small hobby knife (ensure the blade is sharp) for separating your model parts from their plastic sprues this will also be useful for finer operations later on. Some modellers prefer nail clippers or scissors for this, and these are recommended for younger modellers as they are much safer, and it saves money on buying new blades all the time.
A cutting mat, or at the very least, a small off cut of wood or a ceramic tile. You need something to cut against that will allow you to safely use some very sharp blades. Let's face facts, plastic is the enemy of sharp knives. Nothing blunts a razor edge more than polystyrene or polythene. However, a dedicated cutting mat is the best choice, for several reasons. It treats your blades more kindly than wood, ceramic or glass would, it is non slip (an often under appreciated quality) and,[url=http://www.sac-lancelpascher.fr/]lancel[/url], finally, it spares damage to any important surface, such as a dining table, that might otherwise accumulate unsightly razor scratches and tool gouges. In these circumstances, the careless modeller is sure to acquire gouges of a different kind, from anyone to whom the table surface is precious,[url=http://www.doudoune--moncler.fr/]moncler @#$%&[/url], most often a mother or significant other. So get a cutting mat it spares much grief.
Glue. Polystyrene model cement is usually supplied in little tubes in a kit box,[url=http://www.nikeairmaxe.co.uk/]@#$%& air max[/url], and can also be bought separately. It is recommended as it has a thicker consistency than Superglue so is much better for glueing, and is far less messy. Polystyrene cement actually 'welds' the parts together rather than merely sticking them, so too much glue will result in an amorphous and irretrievable mess. Be especially careful and thrifty when glueing clear plastic parts, as any glue will 'frost' over clear plastic if too much is used. Also highly recommended are the bottles of glue that come with a needle applicator these are very handy as well. Steer clear of other types of adhesives until you are more experienced.
Paints. There are two types: enamel and acrylic. They come in small bottles or tins, with most modellers prefering enamel paints4. Acrylic is water based,[url=http://www.sacmichaelkors-pascher.fr/]michael kors @#$%&[/url], whereas enamels must be thinned with turpentine. So you will also need some 'turps' if you choose to use enamel paints. Which you should. The kit should have a list of recommended paints supplied with it. Make sure you have an adequate supply, and the right type. Paints for models are much like any other paints; there's matt, gloss and metallic you really don't want to paint your Sherman tank model in gloss green as it will look horrible! If you can, and you intend to make a variety of models, stock up on paints. And buy two or more of the colours you use more readily. Military modellers will have an endless supply of greens,[url=http://www.reebokshoesoutlet.us@#$%&/]reebok shoes[/url], browns, and 'gun metal'. And don't chuck away used tins when finished,[url=http://www.instylerionicstyler.us@#$%&/]instyler[/url], as they'll be useful as mixer pots in the future.
A few paintbrushes. You will need a large surface brush,[url=http://www.giuseppe-zanotti.us@#$%&/]giuseppe zanotti[/url], then some fine detail brushes. Brushes come in numbers to show how big they are; 1 upwards are large surface brushes, with 0, 00, 000,[url=http://www.thenorthface-outlet.us@#$%&/]north face outlet[/url], 5/0 and 10/0 being for fine detail. 00 is a pretty good all purpose size. You can pick these up from hobby stores; a hardware shop will sell you paint brushes but they might not do the job intended, and be a trifle large for your purposes.
A flat nosed screwdriver. Essential for opening paints. And other stuff.
Two small glasses one for water, one for turpentine. These are for you to put your paint brushes in to clean them.
A rag. To dry your brushes, or just generally clean up any kind of mess.
Fine grade sandpaper, for sanding 'burrs' off parts, and useful for cleaning up edges where kit parts come together after glueing. A useful extra buy is a packet of needle files. Coming in a variety of shapes and textures,[url=http://www.oakleysunglasses-outletcheap@#$%&/]oakley sale[/url], these versatile files may be used for cleaning, fine shaping, opening up location holes, etc, and certainly justify their cost.

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